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      內聯升

      Nei Lian Sheng

      2022-04-08 14:31:56   來源:中國商務新聞網   作者:

      老話兒說:“爺不爺,先看鞋”,曾幾何時,穿上一雙內聯升絕對是身份地位的象征?!巴豕蟪忌铣h政必要穿朝靴,這是高檔次的官靴了。一雙朝靴可價值數十兩白銀,大多是由內聯升鞋店定制的……” 北京民俗專家常人春所著《老北京的穿戴》一書中寫道。

      As the old saying goes, “Idler or not, look at the shoes first”. Once upon a time, wearing a pair of Nei Lian Sheng shoes was definitely a symbol of one’s identity. “When princes and ministers went to court to discuss state affairs, they needed to wear court boots, which were high-grade official boots. A pair of court boots could be worth tens of taels of silver, and were mostly customized by Nei Lian Sheng shoe store....” Beijing folklore expert Chang Renchun wrote in his book The Dressing of Old Beijing.

      做好鞋 去內聯升

      Go to Nei Lian Sheng for Good Shoes

      1853年,鞋匠趙廷在北京東交民巷創辦了內聯升,當時專門給皇親貴族制作朝靴,“內”指大內宮廷,“聯升”則寓意顧客穿上本店制作的朝靴,可以官運亨通連連升遷。

      Shoemaker Zhao Ting founded Nei Liang Sheng in 1853 in Dongjiaomin Lane, Beijing, specializing in making court boots for royal and aristocratic families. The word “Nei” refers to the royal court in Chinese and “Lian Sheng” means that customers who wear shoes of the store would get promoted consecutively and have a successful career.

      內聯升的千層底布鞋之所以質量好,首先是用料講究。千層底用的都是純棉制成的白布,沒有雜色,不允許有舊布。漿糊用的都是高筋粉,黏度相當高,要高于食用面粉。制作中,要靠濕度去活化它,然后反復黏合。

      The first reason for the good quality of Nei Lian Sheng’s multi-layered cloth shoes lies in selected materials. The multi-layered cloth shoes are made of unadulterated white cotton cloth. No worn cloth is allowed. The paste is made of high gluten flour, with a higher viscosity than edible flour. When shoes are made, the paste is activated by humidity and then repeatedly glued.

      除了用料,內聯升千層底布鞋的制作工序要求講究,甚至有些嚴苛。底子的層數和厚度都是精細到具體數字的,納心兒也有講究,針腳要密實勻稱,不管橫看、豎看、斜看,都得呈一條直線。一雙最普通的平針“千層底”需納制2100針,十字底就是4200針。

      In addition to the materials used, the production processes of Nei Lian Sheng’s multi-layered cloth shoes are also demanding, even a little exacting. The number of layers and thickness of the sole are specified, and the stitching of the core is also elaborate. The stitches should be dense and even. Whether you look at them horizontally, vertically or obliquely, they have to be in a straight line. Generally, a pair of running stitch multi-layered cloth shoes requires 2,100 stitches, and a pair of cross stitch shoes requires 4,200 stitches.

      鞋底納好了,先要經過80度左右的熱水蒸制,加熱后的鞋底用棉被包嚴熱悶,再用木槌槌平、整型、曬干。經過這些打磨,內聯升的鞋看起來平整、不走樣,能保證舒適度,也能保證耐穿。

      After the soles are finished, they are first steamed in hot water at about 80 degrees Celsius. The heated soles are wrapped tightly in quilts and smothered, then flattened with a wooden mallet, shaped and dried in the sun. After all these processes, Nei Lian Sheng’s shoes look flat, well-shaped, and are comfortable and durable.

      一雙由40多種制鞋工具、九十余道工序純手工打造的內聯升千層底布鞋,需要一名工藝嫻熟的師傅花費一周的時間才能制作出來。百余年過去,內聯升幾經變遷,可它精工細作的制作工藝卻傳承至今。不同于一般流水線所生產出來的商品,內聯升一代代傳承人手上厚厚的繭,守護著內聯升的品牌質量。

      To complete a pair of Nei Lian Sheng multi-layered cloth shoes, a skilled craftsman needs to spend a week making them by hand with more than 40 kinds of shoe-making tools and more than 90 steps. Over the past hundred years, Nei Lian Sheng has undergone various changes, but its meticulous craftsmanship has been passed down to this day. Unlike the goods produced by the assembly line, generations of Nei Lian Sheng inheritors have guarded the quality of the brand with thick calluses on their hands.

      跨界聯名出新招

      Innovation through Cross-industry Co-branding

      許多消費者對老字號的印象就是“人老、店老、產品老”,傳統、單一黑色、專賣老頭鞋,這是以前消費者對于內聯升的認知。針對這三老,內聯升提出“ 三新”——“新匠人、新零售、新設計”。從只做朝靴,到男鞋、女鞋、童鞋樣樣齊全;從只做傳統布鞋,到3000多個種類琳瑯滿目;從等待顧客上門,到以網購、直播等新營銷方式主動出擊……內聯升在保證匠心實藝的基礎上,一直在尋求新的突破。

      Time-honored brands are stereotyped as “aged people, old stores, and outdated products”. Specializing in traditional black shoes for the elderly was consumers’ previous perception of Nei Lian Sheng. In response to this perception, Nei Lian Sheng proposed “new in three aspects”: new craftsmen, new retail, and new design. Nei Lian Sheng is always pursuing breakthroughs on the basis of ensuring the craftsmanship and solid craft. It has gone from making only court boots to offering a complete range of men’s, women’s and children’s shoes, from making only traditional cloth shoes to offering more than 3,000 varieties, and from waiting for customers’ visits to taking the initiative with new marketing approaches such as online shopping and live streaming.

      從2013年開始,也就是品牌160周年以后,內聯升重點在做的就是品牌的時尚化轉型。以自己積淀的百年品質背書,內聯升瞄準年輕市場,投其所好,相繼和一批超級IP進行跨界聯合,與故宮淘寶、《如懿傳》、《國家寶藏》、王者榮耀、憤怒的小鳥、迪士尼等IP合作推出聯名款布鞋。2016年,隨著電影《大魚海棠》熱映,內聯升順勢推出了同名系列布鞋,兩款女鞋開售不到18個小時300雙全部售罄。

      Since 2013, or the 160th anniversary of the brand, Nei Lian Sheng has focused on the fashionable development of the brand. Supported by the quality accumulated over the past century, Nei Lian Sheng targets younger customers and has carried out cross-industry cooperation with a number of super IPs. It has partnered with Forbidden City’s Taobao Store, the TV drama series Ruyi’s Royal Love in the Palace, the TV program “National Treasure”, the popular mobile games Honor of Kings and Angry Birds, as well as Disney to launch co-branded cloth shoes. In 2016, with the movie Big Fish & Begonia hitting theaters, Nei Lian Sheng launched the eponymous series of cloth shoes. All 300 pairs of women’s shoes in two styles were sold out within less than 18 hours after the launch.

      2018年,為吸引年輕人走近老字號、了解老字號,內聯升將一個鞋盒造型的快閃店開進北京三里屯,內聯升的4位“匠人”師傅,一邊演示著千層底布鞋的絕活兒,一邊講解其中的奧秘。2019年,內聯升還推出了一個子品牌“大內聯升”,借鑒潮牌的代言、限量銷售、聯名款等方式進行推廣。面向對中國文化感興趣的時尚人群,開發鞋子、T恤、衛衣、扁帽、襪子等產品。

      In 2018, in order to attract young people to get closer to and understand the time-honored brand, Nei Lian Sheng opened a pop-up shop in the shape of a shoebox in Sanlitun, Beijing. Four master craftsmen from Nei Lian Sheng demonstrated the skills of making multi-layered cloth shoes in the shop while explaining the subtleties. In 2019, Nei Lian Sheng also launched a sub-brand “Da Nei Lian Sheng”, drawing on the endorsement, limited sales, and co-branded models of fashion brands for promotion. The sub-brand develops products such as shoes, T-shirts, sweatshirts, berets, and socks for fashionistas interested in Chinese culture.

      從朝靴到潮鞋,內聯升正在通過“減齡”,不斷走進現代年輕人的生活。但內聯升百余年來的一以貫之的傳統卻從未改變:以變化的種類適應市場的變化,以不變的品質贏得客戶的信任。

      From shoes for court officials to shoes for fashionistas, Nei Lian Sheng is reaching modern young people through “being younger”. But the tradition that has been consistent for more than a century at Nei Lian Sheng has never changed: adapting to market changes with changing varieties and winning customers’ trust with unchanging quality.

      “做好鞋,去內聯升”,這句口號一直都在。

      “Go to Nei Lian Sheng for Good Shoes”, the slogan has always been followed.


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