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      瑞蚨祥

      Refosian

      2022-04-08 14:31:56   來源:中國商務新聞網   作者:

      繚綾繚綾何所似?不似羅綃與紈綺,應似天臺山上明月前,四十五尺瀑布泉。中國是絲綢的故鄉,文人寫下詠嘆絲綢的詩詞,畫家在絲綢制成的絹帛上潑墨揮灑,中國人對絲綢總有著不同的情感。

      “What does the thin Liao silk look like? Neither like gauze or raw silk nor like fine silk or damask. It should be compared to a forty-five feet waterfall in Tiantai Mountain, flowing down before the bright moon.” China is the homeland of silk. Literati write poems about silk; painters use brushes to paint on silk, and Chinese people always have affection for silk.

      廣裁衫袖長制裙,金斗熨波刀剪紋。百年來致力于傳承中國韻味的瑞蚨祥,以定制產業為核心,產業涉足服裝、配飾、皮草、家用紡織品等多個領域。如今步入瑞蚨祥北京前門店,傳統的四合院式布局,天井式的房屋結構同進門處當年為達官貴人購物時停車用的栓馬樁、門面上的石雕、罩棚等等,還恍惚間讓人仿佛置身百年前鬧市中的傳統絲綢店。

      “Wide Liao silk was cut into sleeves and long Liao silk was made into a dress. The creases were ironed out and the patterns were cut with scissors.” Refosian (Rui Fu Xiang), which has been dedicated to the inheritance of Chinese charm for a hundred years, tailors garments, accessories, furs, and home textiles, etc. Refosian’s Qianmen store in Beijing is a traditional quadrangular courtyard house. The house structure with a light court, the hitching post used to park carriages at the entrance for dignitaries in ancient times, the stone carvings on the facade, the canopy, etc., make you feel as if you were in a traditional silk store in the downtown area a century ago.

      瑞蚨祥的“蚨”字源自中國古代“青蚨還錢”的典故。據晉代《淮南子》.《搜神記》中記載,“蚨其形似蟬而稍大……生子必依草葉,大如蠶子,取其子,母即飛歸,不以遠近。雖潛取其子,母必知去處,以母血涂錢八十一文,以子血涂錢八十一文,每市物,或先用母錢,或先用子錢皆復飛歸輪轉無已”。孟鴻升取“蚨”字入店名,寓意企業投出的錢財能夠源源復回。取“瑞”“祥”二字,是祈盼企業吉祥好兆生意興隆。

      The character “Fu” in the name “Rui Fu Xiang” came from the ancient Chinese story of “Qingfu brings money back to the owner”. According to Huainanzi and In Search of the Supernatural (Soushen Ji) written in the Jin Dynasty, “The Fu is an insect similar to a cicada but slightly larger. It gives birth to a larva on a grass leaf, which is as big as a silkworm. If the larva is taken away, the mother would fly to it, no matter how far away it is. Even if the larva is stolen, the mother definitely knows its whereabouts. If you apply the blood of the mother Fu and the larva on 81 coins respectively, and then go to buy something, whether you use the money with the blood of the mother insect or that of the larva first, the money will fly back and never run out.” Meng Hongsheng used the character “Fu” in the name of his store to imply that the money invested in the business would come back to him. He used the characters “Rui” and “Xiang” to pray for good luck and business prosperity.

      在老北京有“頭頂馬聚源,身穿瑞蚨祥,腳踩內聯升”的購物口訣,當時在京城的綢布店里,名氣最大的就要屬瑞蚨祥。憑借優良的面料與精致的做工,始建于1862年的瑞蚨祥名列“八大祥”之首。新中國升起的第一面五星紅旗,面料就是由瑞蚨祥提供的。瑞蚨祥的服裝選料精良、剪裁得體、滾邊講究、盤扣精美。瑞蚨祥中式服裝從前期選料到制作成衣要十幾道工序,且在裝飾手法上尤為講究,延續了清代服裝工藝中的“滾、鑲、宕、嵌、盤、繡”工藝,根據服飾需求,各種技法組合搭配。從領口到底邊到一個小小的盤扣,一針一線精益求精,每一步都是純手工制作,滲透著的幾代手藝人積累超過一個世紀的深厚底蘊。

      There was a shopping rule known in Beijing: Wearing Ma Ju Yuan hats, Refosian clothes, and Nei Lian Sheng shoes. Refosian was the most famous silk store in the capital city at that time. With excellent fabrics and exquisite workmanship, Refosian, which was founded in 1862, topped the eight silk stores with the character “Xiang” in their names. The fabric of the first national flag of the People’s Republic of China was provided by Refosian. Made of fine fabrics, Refosian’s garments are appropriately tailored and well piped, with beautiful frog fasteners. Refosian’s traditional style garments require more than a dozen processes from the selection of fabrics to the production of the finished garments, and are particularly elaborate in terms of decoration techniques. It follows the “piping, hemming, line cutting, inlaying, buttoning, and embroidery” techniques of the Qing Dynasty, and combines various techniques according to the needs of making a garment. From the collar to the bottom hem and tiny frog fasteners, every stitch is perfect and every step is handmade, reflecting the profound culture accumulated by generations of craftsmen for more than a century.

      百年老店瑞蚨祥,見證了建國初期公私合營、從私營到國營,改革開放后實行股份制改革的時代變遷?,F今,以旗袍為代表的傳統中式服裝越來越得到消費者的青睞,瑞蚨祥作為一個金字招牌,在中式傳統服裝制作、傳統旗袍手工定制、傳統繡花技藝、盤扣技藝以及手工縫制等高級定制服務中均可謂佼佼者,特別在定制彰顯將東方女性婉約風韻和絲綢特有的絲軟華麗完美結合的旗袍上成績斐然。

      The century-old Refosian store has witnessed the changes of the times from public-private partnership in the early years of the founding of the People’s Republic of China, private ownership to state ownership, and joint-stock reform after the reform and opening up. The traditional Chinese clothing represented by Chi-pao (cheongsam) is increasingly popular among consumers nowadays. Refosian, as an iconic brand, is a leader in providing couture services such as traditional Chinese costume making, handmade custom cheongsam, traditional embroidery techniques, frog fastener techniques, and hand-tailor. Refosian is particularly adept at making cheongsam, which epitomes the blending of Eastern women’s charm and softness of silk.

      如今,在致力于沿襲傳統文化、保留傳統飾樣的同時,瑞蚨祥以新時代的視角與時俱進地推陳出新,不斷推出上千種手繡紋樣與盤扣花樣,引領著中式時裝新趨向,成為高級定制的百年經典品牌。如今瑞蚨祥的高級定制服務更是采用專業化管理,圍繞“九大流程”,即由專屬助理、形象顧問、量體師、制版師、剪裁師、縫紉師、整燙師、盤扣技師以及刺繡技師組成的多人團隊,實現“一個團隊為一個人服務”,滿足消費者高檔次、個性化、一站式、體驗型的消費需求。正是這些傳統的絕技以及優質的服務,使得瑞蚨祥在高級定制領域贏得了消費者的好口碑,同時也奠定了行業內的領先地位。

      While carrying forth traditional culture and preserving traditional decorative patterns, Refosian has kept up with the times and introduced thousands of hand-embroidered patterns and frog fastener designs, leading the new trend of Chinese fashion and becoming a century-old classic brand of haute couture. Refosian’s couture services are now professionally managed and involve nine major processes. It has set up teams including exclusive assistants, image consultants, measure masters, pattern makers, tailors, sewers, ironers, frog fastener technicians, and embroiderers to achieve “one team for one customer” and meet consumers’ demand for high-end, personalized, one-stop, and experience-oriented consumption. It is these traditional skills and quality services that have earned Refosian a good reputation among consumers in the field of haute couture, as well as a leading position in the industry.

      百余年來,瑞蚨祥始終將百年積淀的中國傳統文化與勇于突破的創新精神相結合,將中國元素,百年傳承的制衣技藝,融匯在每一件華服中。而新時期瑞蚨祥人也依舊堅守著文化傳承的信念,以誠信、優質取信于民,傳習著“至誠至上、貨真價實、言不二價、童叟無欺”的百年店訓,創造著一件又一件的華服佳作。

      For more than a century, Refosian has always combined profound traditional Chinese culture with pioneering and innovative spirits. It integrates traditional elements and century-old garment-making skills in every fine costume. In the new era, the staff of Refosian continue to pass on traditional culture and gain the trust of consumers with integrity and quality. Adhering to the century-old operation philosophy of “genuine and honest, treating everyone equally”, they have created one exquisite garment after another.


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